The size of the pupil is related to the nervous system and to the bird’s willpower. Watch out for those pigeons that have large pupils. An increase in the size of the pupil means a decrease in the ability to fight in difficult circumstances. As long as I’ve been keeping pigeons, I’ve never seen champion birds with large pupils.

An expert fancier once said:

“We aren’t interested in small pupils as such, but in the factors causing them to be small. As these are closely related to willpower.”

Always look for pigeons with pupils that, even in semi darkness, are smaller than those of other birds. Pigeons with pupils that do not change at all under different lighting conditions, but always stay the same size, to me are absolutely useless for breeding as well as for highflying or racing.

Color of Iris in Pigeon Eyes

When judging the quality of a pigeon, the next important measuring scale is the color of the iris. The iris is the colored ring between the pupil and the cornea. Sometimes you may notice a thin, black ring which separates the iris from the cornea. The ring has been named after Louis Vermeyen. The Vermeyen ring, and it is very noticeable in the younger birds.

It has never been sufficiently proven if a pallid or a vividly colored eye is either good or bad. But I’ve never disguised my opinion. I prefer a richly colored eye of pigeon. The color of the eye and the richness of that color depend upon pigmentation. Of course, I’m not saying that everything is subject to eye color, but good color is a positive sign.

Neither is it important, or is it desired that the colors are present in regular rings. The iris may show all different color variations as long as the colors are deep. Starting from the very inner circumference up to the outside border.

Pigeon eyes with many colors blended together as if an artist took all the leftover paint on his palette and painted the iris with it.

Eye of Pigeon & Blood Supply

Besides the color of the eye, an even more valuable tool for judging the performance possibilities in a pigeon is the blood supply to the eye. This is because it is closely related to the components which determine the abilities to achieve and this again allows you to draw certain conclusions which are relative to the general characteristics of a certain pigeon.

When considering pigeons with large pupils, you only have 10% chance of success. While eyes without color, or not enough granulation give you no more than a 20% chance.

Common sense tells us that to have the best possible chance of being successful in the future, we should only keep pigeons with characteristics that have a positive effect on the ability to achieve.

The rate of blood supply to the eyes, which we measure by looking at the granulation and the amount of red color, is extremely important because it gives us a clear indication of how the blood supply is to the rest of the body. When the blood supply to the eye is excellent, it is very unlikely that it is inadequate to the other parts of the body.

Vitality in Pigeon

One of the basic elements needed for the ability to achieve is vitality. Vitality in a pigeon, in a way, is similar to the bird being in top form. Pigeons, with much vitality, will year after year, day after day, look the same as an ordinary flying pigeon does when it is in top condition.

To obtain high ratings in vitality and general condition a pigeon’s body needs a blood supply that is consistently higher than that of the average bird. An increase in blood supply improves the form, a decrease does the opposite. Therefore, it is safe to state that the important ingredient in pigeons which are consistently high in vitality, is their excellent blood supply system.

When we are able to conclude from granulation and the color of the eyes that an above average blood supplies is present, we can at the same time assume that this is true for the rest of the bird’s body. Such pigeons give us a much better than average chance to succeed.

Pigeon Eye Alert !

It sometimes happens, for a certain period of time, the color of the eyes may fade significantly in pigeons who either are under stress, or who recently had to perform a strenuous task.

The sparkle disappears, showing that the entire organism is over tired, and as a consequence, the blood supply has dwindled down to the bare minimum. Pigeons, who have as a characteristic a poor blood supply system, are unable to perform well.

Circle of Correlation

Something we haven’t discussed, as of earlier is the ‘surveillance’ ring. The ‘surveillance’, or circle of correlation(eye-sign) is a colorless, or black, semi or whole circle, located directly between the iris and the pupil.

In the past, as well as in the present, there are fanciers who consider the size, and the shape, of this circle to be of the utmost importance. These same fanciers claim to be able to draw the most fantastic conclusions from this circle of correlation.

Remember, pigeons with a complete correlation or ‘surveillance’ circle are better suited for breeding than for racing or flying purposes, and it would be advisable for every fancier to have a few of these birds in their loft.

Another, characteristic of a racing pigeon’s eye is the ‘Vermeyen ring’ also circle of health for pigeons. The Vermeyen ring is a small black ring, separating the colored part of the eye from the cornea, which has no color.

The best way to observe this ring is by looking at the eyes of young, dark eyed pigeons, while holding them in the light.

In mature pigeons the intensity of the ring’s color is one of the best measuring tools for determine form. A close to perfect system of blood supply results in birds that easily reach top form.

At the same time this perfect blood supply system makes the Vermeyen ring change from its normal gray color to a deeper black. The color of the ring becomes a reliable aid in evaluating the overall condition of the pigeon during the entire tournament season.

Best Tip To Judge Eye of Pigeon

In conclusion, here is one more feature of the eyes: when we look a pigeon straight in the face with our eye level, parallel to the bird’s beak, we can see both eyes fully. When the eyes and the face together give you the impression of an owl’s face, most often you’re dealing with some of the smartest pigeons in the loft.

And I challenge you to test this feature for accuracy in your own loft.

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Pigeon deworming is important for several reasons. Just like any other animal, pigeons are prone to parasitic infestations, including worms. These worms can reside in the bird’s intestinal tract and cause various health issues if left untreated.

Deworming helps to eliminate these parasites and prevent their negative impact on pigeon health. Parasitic worms can affect the bird’s overall well-being by compromising their immune system, causing nutritional deficiencies, and leading to weight loss. Moreover, severe infestations can even result in organ damage and death.

Pigeon owners should regularly deworm pigeons kept in captivity, particularly those bred for racing or show purposes. These birds often live in close quarters, facilitating the spread of parasites. By implementing a deworming schedule, pigeon owners can maintain their birds’ health and prevent parasites from spreading within their populations.

Symptoms of Worms in Pigeons:

1. Weight loss: Pigeons with worm infestations may experience unexplained weight loss despite a regular appetite.
2. Poor growth or stunted development: Young pigeons infected with worms may not grow at the expected rate compared to their healthy counterparts.
3. Diarrhea: Infected pigeons might have loose or watery droppings more frequently than usual.
4. Poor feather quality: Pigeons suffering from worm infestations may exhibit dull or disheveled feathers, as parasites can affect their overall health and nutrient absorption.
5. Reduced activity or lethargy: Infected pigeons may appear less energetic and show decreased interest in regular activities.
6. Increased thirst: Worm infestations can sometimes lead to increased water consumption in pigeons.
7. Visible worms in droppings: In severe cases, you may notice adult worms or worm segments in the pigeon’s droppings.

Round Worms in Pigeons

Roundworms are a common parasite that can affect various animals, including pigeons. Roundworms, also known as ascarids, are intestinal worms that can cause health problems in pigeons if left untreated. These worms can be transmitted through the ingestion of contaminated food or water, or through direct contact with infected feces. In pigeons, roundworm infections can lead to reduced appetite, weight loss, poor feather condition, and gastrointestinal disturbances. If you suspect your pigeons may have roundworms, it’s best to consult with a veterinarian who can provide an accurate diagnosis and recommend appropriate treatment options.

Hair Worms in Pigeons

Also known as threadworms, eggs are passed in feces, larvate in 1 week or longer, and are picked up from contaminated environment directly by new host.

The Female begin to produce eggs and further contaminate the environment in 2- 3 weeks. Lightly infested birds may show symptoms of anorexia or decreased appetite with weightless. Heavy infestations may result in illness or death due to emaciation, dehydration and anemia.

Tape Worms

Rallietina and Aporina (Taenia) delafondi are the most common tapeworms in pigeons. Feather louse has been suspected. Laziness, watery or mucoid droppings, weakness and leg paralysis have been reported.

Best Medicine For Pigeon Worms Treatment

• Levamisol (13.65% solution) dosed at 100mg/gal drinking water is very effective for roundworms, but not effective for stomach or tapeworms.
• Mebendazole is a fairly safe wormer that is effective against most worms except tapeworms. For all birds, it can be used as 0.5 teaspoon/gal drinking water for 3-5 days.
• Fenbenzazole at 10mg/kg once daily for 3 days shown 99% effective in removing roundworms and hairworms. (not recommended to use in molting season)

Deworming in Pigeons – Some Products

• Zental
• Vermox (not to use in moulting season)
• Oxafax
• Combi-Worm (All worms) (Global)
• Belga-Wormac (Hair & Roundworm)
• Wormmix (Hair & Roundworms) (DAC)
• Worm-Ex (Hair & Roundworms) (Pantex)

Deworming in Pigeons Expert Opinion & Advice

Deworming in Pigeons – I frequently encounter cases of pigeons having tape-worms. The bird becomes thin and tired-looking, with dull and sunken eyes. It also shows an abnormal appetite and lacks its usual energy for flying. By closely observing the bird, you can often notice the tape-worm protruding from its rear. I have removed tape-worms measuring three to four feet in length from pigeons. Additionally, there are other small worms and parasites that can affect them.

The most effective treatment I have found for worm removal is to give the bird a 5-minim capsule of male-fern oil on an empty crop. About two hours later, I administer a dose of castor oil, occasionally purging with a small amount of sulphate of magnesia. This treatment has shown great results, as some affected birds have gone on to perform well, and the worms have not reappeared.

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Some fanciers can hold a bird and instinctively feel by its weight, breastbone and body firmness whether it is a possible tournament winner, but for those of us who are not so fortunate.

For the purpose of understanding i will present a rough overall guide. I am not saying that birds that tick all these boxes will win, nor that birds that do not tick them all will never win. I am saying that from experience these birds have the highest chance of success.

 Pigeon Head Shape

Should be well rounded (but sometimes slightly flat on top) and well developed and large, even slightly bulbous, between the eyes. Overly small heads tend to result in a bird that is not as intelligent as his larger headed peers. 

Quality Pigeons Beak

Solid and strong looking and firmly planted in the head. Size should be in proportion with the rest of the body. Upper mandible should be larger than the lower.   

Pigeon Body Structure

Should be of a sturdy build with flesh feeling hard and not soft to the touch. The back should be broad with strong shoulders while the chest should be deep with enough room for large, well developed lungs. 

Quality of Pigeons Breastbone

Obviously the wing muscles are connected to the breastbone, so if it is not well formed then the bird will not fly well. The breastbone should therefore be strong and thick to give hold to these muscles.

Shape of Breastbone

If a pigeon has an arched breastbone then it will never be a good racer and should certainly be avoided but in case of highflyers, arched shape or a shape of boat (from bottom) is consider as the best.

 Shape of Pigeon Wings

Supple when stretched; not too easily giving and not overly hard to open. Primaries will offer great resistance due to the small feathers covering the wings. The larger and stronger these feathers, the better the wings. 

The tip of the wings should be very close to the end of the tail but wings do not necessarily have to completely cover the rump. 

Quality Sign in Pigeon Eyes

Five elements of eyes are also known as the “five circles” and they consist of the pupil, the circle of correlation, the circle of adaption, the iris and the health ring.  Eyes of pigeons must be bright, pupil should be jet black and in center of the eye. There is a complete post on all elements of eye in the blog section.
Click for details

Plumage

Color is unimportant but the quality of the quills matters. Quills should be flexible whilst the feathers are silky and smooth. Good plumage has a shine on the bird’s neck and throat.

The surface area of the wing should look like a marbled flat and hard surface. A healthy bird will deposit a white bloom on contact.
 

Tail of Pigeon

Slender and not overly long. At rest it should have a width of one feather. As with all the previous tips, this is not definitive, a wider tail is not necessarily a disadvantage.   

Important to realize that pigeons use their tails for balance, turning and controlling their movement in the air.

Feet of Pigeons

 Clean, sturdy looking and nimble. If your bird is ill you can almost always spot it first in the feet. Healthy birds will always keep their feet clean whilst sick birds can let their feet get dirty. 

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The post Best Quality Pigeons Sign to Notice appeared first on Kabootar Parwari.

Tips to Check Pigeon Health

Dropping of the pigeons should be well formed, without smell, brown/green in color and firm. Birds with slimy, wet dropping or dropping with worm like particles in them should be removed from the loft immediately.

There should be no yellow, slimy mucous or deposits or grey spots any where in the lining or on the jaw of pigeons.

Beaks of pigeons should have white, powdery skin and the same around their eyes.

Feet should be clean and responsive. Only an ill pigeon would allow itself to get dirty feet. Feathers around their anus should be dry and clean with no discoloration or dirt.

Eyes should be bright, alert and clear all the time. There should be no sign of flies, mites or other parasites in the loft.

Entering New Birds In Loft !

Always quarantine new birds: Many birds carry bad bacteria yet look healthy. All new pigeons should be wormed, treated for canker and coccidia, and placed on ten days of antibiotics (Baytril or Cipro are good) to get rid of salmonella BEFORE they are put in with the other birds.  Do NOT cause your birds any undue stress by over handling, irregular loud noises or constant interference. Stress will definitely affect their performance. 

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Eye sign is only a very small part of the large pigeon racing picture and decisions on racing or breeding should never be made solely on eye sign alone.

There are many other factors  besides eye sign that a fancier should look at in order to be successful in pigeon racing. Some of the main factors are ancestry, breeding ability, racing ability, size, shape, feathering and  anatomy etc.

Knowledge about eye sign is most effective when used for breeding selection purposes. Once you become more experienced and comfortable, it can also be used as a guide to figure out birds having racing capabilities.

Good experience in judging the eye can greatly assist you in breeding better birds and staying on top as well as allowing  you to keep fewer and better birds rather than a lot of worthless ones.   

Racing Pigeon Eyes – Tools of Trade

When it comes to eye sign there are only two tools that a fancier will need for successful eye sign research. The loupe and light. The loupe will allow you to magnify the pigeon’s eye while you examine it. Proper lighting will allow you to see the reflex action of the pupil the moment the light hits the eye. It is in this first second of the reflex action that you will learn the value of a bird as a breeder.

Reflex is the action of the eye muscles pulling the iris proper down over the pupil giving the impression of the pupil getting smaller when the light hits it. In reality it does not move at all. This reflex action is what allows us to make our best judgment of the eye and its value by allowing the circles to be seen in an enlarged state.

This is the only proper way of making a grading. You will want to try to block out as much light as possible when putting the loupe in your eye, so that you will get a good look at the eyes reflex action.

You will want to conduct your eye sign research with the brightest sunlight possible. Usually at high noon, this will give you the most accurate results.

Always remember to check both eyes. No two bird’s eyes are the same just as both eyes of the same bird  are not the same. It is also important to remember to look at both eyes. The left eye will generally show you the best eye sign quality of each bird. 

Getting in Position  To Observe Pigeon Eye

When examining your birds in the sunlight you will want to keep the sun at your back. Hold the pigeon in front of you shaded from the sun in  your right hand and secure the pigeon’s beak with three fingers of your left hand. 

Hold the bird up to your eye while placing the backs of your thumbs up against your cheek and remember to keep the eye still shaded from the sun.

Now while the pigeon’s eye is up against the loupe make sure it is in focus. Once the bird is in place and the loupe is focused twist your back to let the sunlight hit the pigeon’s eye.

It is at this split second that you will be able to the reflex action of the eye and see all that is needed to make your observation of eye sign.   

Elements of the Racing Pigeon Eyes  

There are five elements of the eye that you will need to familiarize yourself with. These five elements are also known as the “five circles”. They consist of the pupil, the circle of correlation, the circle of adaption, the iris and the health ring.   

The Pupil 

The pupil must be jet black in colour and be completely round. You should look for defects in the pupil such as miss-shaped or oval looking pupils. The pupil must also dilate (shrink) quickly under strong light this is the reflex action we talked about earlier.  Some of the key points of pupil are:

• Should be as small and round as possible and dilate quickly in strong light.
• Should contain “clusters” tiny dots of gold or silver depending on eye color.

Circle of Correlation 

Next is the circle of correlation also known as the color circle. This circle must be complete, rich in color, and have very good width. You will hear dozen of different eye colors but in reality they are variant of 2 basic colors yellow & blue.

Equally important to remember that no color is more valuable than the others. They are all equal some may however be rarer than others but that is the only difference. The wider the color circles band the better for breeding purposes. 

• The size of the “coc” can range from extremely narrow to extremely wide (the wider the better). Wide Circle of Correlation birds are best for breeding.
• Ridges resembles to mountain range, the speed lines which run diagonally indicates faster birds.
• Long distance lines which run with the circle indicate birds that can go the distance for 12 to 14 hours without too much stress or fatigue.

Circle of  Adaption  

Up next is the circle of adaption, this circle lies over the color circle appearing as a Smokey covering and will appear in different shades ranging from a really light grey shade to an almost dense black to a greenish looking black. It is within the circle of adaption that we find the inner rings that all top breeders must have.

No matter how dense the coloring may be with practice you will still be able to see through the coloring and discover the inner rings if present. The circle of adaption can vary in size and shape. They can vary from very narrow to extremely wide the wider being better in all cases.  Important to realize points of the circle of adaption:

• jet black but may also be greenish or greyish black as well.
• Normally difficult to see with the naked eye.
• Comes in various sizes and shapes. Shape can vary along the edges of the circle can be smooth, wrinkled also known as “bottle cap” tear drop and plain.

The Iris  

The iris will be filled with life and color in most birds and comes in many shades. For example red, orange, brown, and dark red to name a select few. The iris must be rich in both color and depth. Most exceptional birds will have full colored irises with deep valleys and high mountains present.  Key points of the iris:

• Clarity, richness and depth of color are all important attributes of the iris. 
• Mountains and valleys should be present.  

Health Circle of Pigeon Eye

The fifth and final element of the eye is the health ring or health circle. This ring provides the blood supply to the eye. Show you healthy birds that will be able to fly 12 to 14 hours without great fatigue.

This fifth circle is much coveted among eye sign practicing fanciers and is present in the eyes of most of the top racers and breeders. It is located at the extreme outer edge of the eye. Will appear either dark black or greyish except in red birds where it will be reddish brown or a lighter color.  Key points of the health circle:

• May appear either dark black or greyish or reddish brown or a lighter color in red birds. 
• Depth of color will also change to show that a bird is coming into form.  

Racing Pigeon Eyes Selection  

Now that we have the basics of eye sign. We are going to use these elements as a guide for sorting and picking our birds. Although eye sign is more commonly used for breeding purposes first. There are few criteria’s for using it to choose racers as well.  

Sprinting Eyes  

Most all race winning sprinters have one common denominator in their eyes; the iris, but more specifically the iris color. 99% of the winning sprinters eyes are  all a very bright, intense, fiery red. The color circle of a sprinting eye is best if they are clean-cut with no dust or lines and should have good width with strong depth of color. This color circle paired with the intense, fiery red iris makes for a strong sprinting eye.  

Middle and Long-Distance Pigeon Eyes  

Middle and long-distance racing pigeons are birds that win from distances between 300 to 700 miles/1120 km. In these birds the eye coloration tends to be very rich as if to jump out at you.

These long-distance eyes also don’t need to be as clearly defined as the sprinters eyes. These eye colors and circles tend to blend together and they come in all colors and shades. You will also find a lot of long distance eyes which contain dust especially in the iris.  

Breeding Eyes of Pigeons

This is where eye sign plays a most important role in the breeding selection. We will start with the iris the breeders must carry the strongest iris of all with the deepest color possible. No matter what shade it is, depth of color is the most important quality here.

Most Good breeder’s eyes also contain metallic qualities in the coloration of the eye and should seem to almost sparkle when you look at them. Now within the circle of adaption we find a major element to a good breeding eye “the inner rings”.

The more inner rings the better the breeding quality of the bird. The inner rings look like thin grey or black lines lying over the color circle. The inner rings should also be accompanied by a strong “mountain range” dark colored peaks and canyons throughout the iris and a good, rich outer circle being the same color as either the color circle or circle of adaption.  

Avoid These Pigeon Eyes For Selection

There are some racing pigeon eyes sign that are no good to us as fanciers. You should get rid of any pigeons that have over large or small pupils. The pupil should be proportionate to the rest of the eye. You should also cull pigeons with thin color circles and birds with thin circle of adaptions.

Pigeons with weak or dull iris pigmentation and pigeons with no outer circle at all are also eye qualities to avoid in your pigeons. Just by sticking to these parameters you should be able to improve your stock in a couple of breeding seasons.  

Article Summary – Racing Pigeon Eyes

There are a few key points to racing pigeon eyes that are very important to remember let’s take a look at a few of them, General, Success will not happen overnight,  

• Do not base decisions solely on eye sign, eye sign is only a piece of the puzzle.  
• Practice makes perfect.  
• Use eye sign for breeding purposes first and racing purposes second.
• Whatever the color might be the iris must always be strong, rich and deep and we must see a good number of peaks and canyons (mountain range) in the eye.  
• The circle of adaption must always carry the breeding sign; the inner rings. 
• The metallic color circles are the best producers, but always look for the mauve/pink in the violet series of the eyes. 
• Just like the breeding eye the iris of the racing eye must be rich, strong and deep.  
• Look for wide color circles that run out well and meet up with the outer circles.  

Important Pigeon Eye Information

The fiery red iris makes for a strong sprinter while the liver red iris is more suitable for long tom extreme distances. Just remember the information here are only guidelines, do not set your heart on a pigeon just because they possess some of these qualities in the eye.

A strong  racing pigeon must also have qualities in it such as good ancestry, strong body, size and shape, feather quality so on and so forth along with proper training, feeding and healthcare regimen.

It is the eye sign teamed up with all these other qualities that make for strong pigeons. It is also important to remember that you must be very  careful when reading the eye because some qualities can be easy to misinterpret, and you could end up getting it all wrong in the end, but if you practice and follow these simple guidelines it won’t be too long before you get the hang of it. 

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سردیوں میں کبوتروں کے لیے دانہ کی مقدار بچے پالتے کبوتروں کو صبح ، شام دو وقت 60 سے 90 گرام فی جوڑا کے حساب سے۔ دن کا دورانیہ لائٹ آن رکھ کر گرمیوں جیسا ہی رکھیں۔

سردیوں میں دانہ کی مقدار

سردیوں میں فارغ کبوتروں کو 20 سے 25 گرام فی کبوتر کے حساب سے 24 گھنٹوں میں ایک بار۔ دانہ کے ساتھ فورا پانی نہ رکھیں۔ بلکہ جب دانہ کھا لیں کم از کم 20 منٹ انتظار کریں۔ پھر ٹھار توڑ کر تازہ پانی رکھیں۔ اور توجہ رکھیں سب کبوتروں نے پانی پی لیا ہے۔ ان شا ء اللہ سب خیر رہے گی۔

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The post سردیوں میں کبوتروں کے لیے دانہ کی مقدار appeared first on Kabootar Parwari.

یہ بیماریاں پوٹ سے شروع ہوکر بڑی آنت تک پہنچتی ہیں. نتیجتاً پرندے کی موت ہو جاتی ہے۔ اس لئے رات جب دانہ اٹھائیں تو اس بات کو یقینی بنائیں کہ جھاڑو سے تمام گرا پڑا دانہ صاف کرکے تلف کردیں۔

کالک فٹ اس مسئلے کا بہترین حل ہے. اگر کبوتر دانے سے بیمار ہوگئے ہیں پوٹ بند ہے، پوٹ کو ملتے ہیں اور چونچ کھول کر سونگھنے سے بدبو آتی ہے تو اس دوا سے دو سی سی لے کر 5 سی سی نیم گرم پانی میں مکس کرکے دے دیں. دو دفعہ دینے سے انشاءاللہ کبوتر ٹھیک ہوجائے گا۔

استاد حبیب مغل- حفظ ما تقدم کے طور پر ہفتے میں ایک دفعہ ایک لیٹر نیم گرم پانی میں 20 سی سی ڈال کر پلائیں۔

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The post استاد حبیب مغل – فوڈ پوائزننگ زہریلا دانہ appeared first on Kabootar Parwari.

لالا قمر دین خان نے کمگر کبوتروں میں فیروزپوری کراس کروا کر “جرے” کبوتر بنائے، فیروزپوری کبوتروں کے کراس کی وجہ سے جرے کبوتروں کی آنکھیں بہت کشادہ اور نیلا ڈورا آگیا۔

ان کبوتروں سے امام دین کبوتر بنے مطلب امام دین کبوتر کمگر کبوتروں کے پوتے ہیں اصل کمگر کبھی امام دین نہیں نکالتے اور اصل امام دین کبھی اصل کمگر نہیں نکالتے

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The post امام دین اور کمگر کبوتروں میں فرق کیا ہے appeared first on Kabootar Parwari.

مسئلہ کچھ یوں ہے کہ مختلف شہروں سے دوست بتا رہے ہیں کہ کبوتر دانا ٹھیک کھا رہے ہوتے ہیں اور اچانک دانا چھوڑ دیتے ہیں پوٹ جام ہو جاتی ہے اور کبوتر پلٹنے سے اسی وقت مر جاتا ہے اور پلٹنے سے سبز سبز سا سیال یا کچھ سبز رنگ کے پوٹ کی جلد کے ٹکڑے نکلتے ہیں اور اگر کبوتر کو پلٹا نا جائے تو اس کی پوٹ سے بدبو انا شروع ہو جاتی ہے جو بہت تیز بدبو ہوتی ہے اور ایسی صورت حال میں بھی کبوتر ایک دو دن میں ہی مر جاتا ہے۔

کبوتروں میں بیماری

حسب علم اور حسب توفیق جو رب عظیم بزرگ و برتر نے علم عطا کیا ہوا ہے اس کے مطابق سب کی مدد کر دیتا ہوں. الحمد اللہ بہت سے دوستوں کو اس کا بہت فائدہ بھی ہوا ہے۔ یہ مسئلہ کافی شہروں سے رپورٹ ہو چکا ہے. اس لیے سوچا اس پر ایک فیچر لکھ دوں تاکہ سب کے کام آ سکے۔ بحرحال اللہ کریم میری اس کوشش میں برکت ڈالے تاکہ معصوم پرندے اس جان لیوا بیماری سے نجات حاصل کر سکیں آمین۔ یہ مسئلہ یا بیماری درحقیقت ہے کیا ؟

میری ناقص معلومات اور سمجھ بوجھ کے مطابق اس بیماری کو پیرا میکسو وائرس (پی۔ایم۔وی) کہتے ہیں۔ بعض اوقات یہ پیراٹائفایڈ بھی ہوتی ہے. ان دونوں بیماریوں کو سمجھنا اور ان کے نقصانات اور باری کی علامات کو جاننا نہایت ہی ضروری ہے۔ پی۔ایم۔وی یعنی پیرا میکسو وائرس اس کا مکمل نام ہے لقوہ جھولا کی بیماری چونکہ وائرس کی بیماری ہے اس لیے اس بیماری کا نام اسی وائرس کے نام پر ہی رکھا گیا ہے یعنی پیرا میکسو۔

ہر وہ بیماری جس کے نام کے ساتھ پیرا لگتا ہے وہ بیماری جسم کا کوئی نا کوئی حصہ مفلوج کر دیتی ہے۔ جیسے پیرا میکسو وائرس میں زیادہ تر گردن متاثر ہوتی ہے. جسے عرف عام میں ہم لقوہ جھولا کی بیماری کے نام سے پکارتے ہیں۔

کبوتروں میں پیرا ٹائیفائڈ کی بیماری

دوسری بیماری جو اس بیماری سے کسی حد تک مشابہت رکھتی ہے وہ ہے پیرا ٹائیفائڈ۔ موجودہ وقت میں یہ مسئلہ کبوتروں میں مکس آ رہا ہے. یعنی پیرا ٹائیفائڈ اور پی۔ایم۔وی اکٹھی اٹیک کر رہی ہیں. جو بے زبان کبوتروں کے لیے انتہائی خطرناک معاملہ ہے. جس کا مناسب سدباب نا کیا جائے تو شدید نقصان اٹھانے کا اندیشہ رہے گا۔

پیراٹائفایڈ بخار کی ایک شدیداور جان لیوا قسم ہے جو کبوتر کا کندہ اور کبوتر کی ٹانگیں مفلوج کر دیتی ہے. اگر بروقت علاج کیا جائے تو اس بیماری کے مضر اثرات سے بچا جا سکتا ہے. لیٹ علاج شروع کیا جائے تو ان میں سے بعض کی ٹانگیں اور شولڈر ٹھیک نہیں ہو پاتے. وہ کبوتر بیکار ہو جاتے ہیں پرواز تو کیا وہ بریڈنگ کے کام بھی نہیں آتے۔

اچانک کبوتروں کا خاموش ہو جانا اور ایک دو دن ہی مر جانا یہ پی۔ایم۔وی کا شدید ترین اٹیک ہوتا ہے۔ اول تو اس بیماری کی لپیٹ میں آنے والا کبوتر بچتا ہی نہیں. اگر کوئی بچ بھی جائے تو اسے لقوہ یا جھولا ہو جاتا ہے ۔ کچھ دوست معلومات نا ہونے کی وجہ سے سمجھ ہی نہیں پاتے کہ یہ بیماری آخر کار ہے کیا. اسی نا سمجھی کی وجہ سے بہت سے کبوتروں کی جان کا نقصان کر بیٹھتے ہیں۔

بیماری میں کبوتروں کے پوٹ پر اثرات

اس شدید ترین اٹیک سے کبوتر کی پوٹ کی اندرونی جلد سبز ہو جاتی ہے. بعض اوقات پوٹ سے پر اٹھا کر دیکھیں تو پوٹ کی باہر والی جلد بھی کالی سی سیاہی مائل ہو جاتی ہے. جن کبوتروں میں پوٹ کے معاملات اس نہج پر پہنچ جائیں وہ کسی بھی دوائی سے نہیں بچتے۔

اس سے بچنے کا بہترین حل یہ ہے کہ کسی بھی کبوتر پر یہ بیماری آ جائے تو سمجھ لیں پورے کھڈے میں بیماری ہے. باقی کبوتروں کو اس شدید ترین حملے سے بچانے کے لیے فوری طور پر وہ طریقہ اور میڈیسن استعمال کی جائے جو نیچے میں لکھ دونگا۔ تاکہ بیماری کا زور پکڑنے سے پہلے کبوتروں پر احتیاطی تدابیر کر لی جائیں. اور بڑے نقصان سے بچا جا سکے۔

پی۔ایم۔وی میں پیٹ کے کیڑوں کا کردار

اس بیماری سے مرے ہوئے کبوتر کا جسم کھول کر دیکھیں تو جگر بھی سیاہ ہو چکا ہو گا۔ معدے میں سوراخ ہو چکے ہوتے ہیں. انتریان سیاہی مائل ہو چکی ہوتی ہیں. پھیپھڑے پھول چکے ہوتے ہیں یا بالکل خشک ہو چکے ہوتے ہیں. اور ایسا ہونا ممکن ہی نہیں ہے کہ ایسے کبوتروں سے پیٹ کے کیڑے نا نکلیں ۔

مشاہدہ کرنے پر معلوم ہو گا کہ انتڑیوں جگر پوٹ اور یہاں تک کہ گلے میں بھی کیڑے ہو سکتے ہیں. یہاں تک کہ بعض کبوتروں کی پوٹ اور انتڑیوں میں اتنے کیڑے ہوتے ہیں کہ انتڑیاں اور پوٹ فل بھری ہوتی ہیں. پوٹ میں جگہ نا ہونے کی وجہ سے کیڑے گردن میں گھس جاتے ہیں. جس کی وجہ سے اکثر کبوتر گردن ملتے رہتے ہیں. ایسا وہ گردن میں کیڑوں کی وجہ سے ہونے والی تکلیف سے کرتے ہیں۔

کبوتروں میں بیماری کے سدباب

مٹی کے برتن

اس بیماری کے آنے کی کچھ وجوہات ہیں. ان پر سختی سے عمل کیا جانا چاہیے۔کبھی بھی کبوتروں کو مٹی کے برتن میں پانی نا ڈالیں نوے فیصد بیماریاں ان مٹی کے برتنوں کی وجہ سے ہی آتی ہیں۔ میرے کہنے کا یہ ہرگز مطلب نہیں ہے کہ مٹی کے برتن بری چیز ہے. اصل میں ہوتا یوں ہے کہ مٹی کے برتن کھلے ہوتے ہیں. اس میں ہی کبوتر بیٹھ کر دیتے ہیں گندے پاوں بھی اسی میں ڈالتے ہیں جو پانی کو آلودہ کر دیتے ہیں. جو مختلف بیماریوں کا موجب بنتے ہیں کچھ اور وجوہات بھی ہیں وہ بیان نہیں کرونگا ورنہ مضمون طوالت پکڑ جائے گا۔

مکس دانا اور فارمی باجرہ

مکس دانا ہرگز استعمال نا کریں خاص کر دال دانا بہت خطرناک ہوتا ہے. اس دال دانے میں پرانی چھانٹی کی ہوئی دال مکس ہوئی ہوتی ہے جو کبوتروں کو شدید نقصان دیتی ہے۔ فارمی باجرہ انتہائی خطرناک ہوتا ہے. جو موٹا دانا ضرور ہوتا ہے لیکن انتہائی خشک اور سخت ہونے کی وجہ سے دو دو دن ہضم ہی نہیں ہوتا. جو معدے کے بہت سے مسائل پیدا کرنے کا موجب بنتا ہے۔ دانا دھو کر ڈالنا بھی خطرناک ثابت ہوتا ہے. دھویا ہوا دانا جب کبوتروں کو ڈالا جاتا ہے تو اس میں کافی نمی باقی ہوتی ہے. چونکہ ٹرے میں سے دانا کبوتر باہر گراتے ہیں اور دانے کے ساتھ نمی ہونے کی وجہ سے فرش کی گندگی اس کے ساتھ چمٹ جاتی ہے جو دانے کے ساتھ ہی کبوتر کے اندر منتقل ہو کر مختلف بیماریوں کو پیدا کرنے کا باعث بنتی ہے۔

نمی والا دھلا ہوا دانہ

دانا دھونے سے دانے کی تاثیر بدل جاتی ہے. خشک دانے کی تاثیر اور ہوتی ہے اور دھوئے ہوئے دانے کی تاثیر مختلف ہوتی ہے۔ اگر کبوتر ایک سال تک دھویا ہوا دانا کھاتے ہیں تو اس کا مطلب ہے کہ خشک دانے کی تاثیر اور افادیت ان تک منتقل نہیں ہو رہی ہوتی جو بہت سے نقصانات کا باعث بنتی ہے۔ دوست دانا اس شق پر دھوتے ہیں کہ دانے کو کوئی دوائی نا لگی ہو یا مٹی اور غبار سے پاک کرنے کے لیے ایسا کرتے ہیں. جو خود کو مطمئین کرنے کے علاوہ اور کچھ بھی نہیں ہے۔

میں خود کبوتروں کو سپیشل مٹی کھلاتا ہوں. مٹی کبوتروں کی ضرورت میں آتی ہے. ہر شوقین جانتا ہے کہ کبوتر مٹی بڑے شوق سے کھاتے ہیں. اس پر بھی کسی دن مکمل مضمون لکھنے کی کوشش کرونگا۔ تو یہ وجہ تو بیکار ہو گئی کہ دانا مٹی نکالنے کے لیے دھویا جاتا ہے۔

دوائ لگا ہوا دانہ

دوسری وجہ دانے کو دوائی لگا ہونا ہے۔ اگر دوائی لگی ہوئی بھی ہو تو دھونے سے اس دوائی کا اثر کبھی ختم نہیں ہو سکتا کیونکہ دوائی دانے کے اندر تک اثر کرتی ہے. دھونے سے دانے کے اندر سے دوائی نہیں نکالی جا سکتی۔ اس کا بہترین حل یہ ہے کہ گندم بغیر دوائی والی خریدیں. مکی چنا کو دوائی نہیں لگائی جاتی۔ برنالہ باجرہ کے علاوہ ہر باجرے کو دوائی لگی ہوتی ہے جو سٹور کیا ہوا ہوتا ہے۔ برنالہ باجرہ لیں اور صاف ستھری دالیں خود علیحدہ علیحدہ خرید کر مکس کریں. سب دانا اپنی مرضی کے مطابق مکس کر کے بنائیں اور دانا دھونا بند کر دیں. دانا خشک ڈالیں جو زیادہ ہاضمہ اور طاقتور ہوتا ہے۔

کبوتروں میں بیماری کا علاج

خدا نا کرے کہ کسی چھت پر اسی بیماری نے حملہ کیا ہوا ہو اور اگر کیا ہوا ہے تو اس کا علاج اس طریقے سے کریں انشاء اللہ اللہ کریم شفاء دینے والا ہے ۔ایسے کبوتروں کو پہلی فرصت میں کس بھی قسم کا دانا ڈالنا بند کر دیں۔ خشک بھورے کھانے کے لیے دیں۔ اگر تو مناسب طریقے سے پیٹ کے کیڑوں کا کورس کیا ہوا تو ٹھیک ہے ورنہ پہلے پیٹ کے کیڑوں کا کورس کریں ۔

اینروسول یا اینروسم سیرپ جو لیکویڈ فارم میں ہو گا وہ لیں اور ایک لیٹر پانی میں دو سی سی مکس کریں۔ اس کے بعد کوئی سے بھی ملٹی وٹامن اگر امپورٹ کیے ہوئے ہوں تو زیادہ بہتر ہے وہ شامل کریں۔ ایک بجے بھورے کھلانے کے بعد یہ دوائی والا پانی چھاوں میں رکھ کر شام تک کبوتروں کے آگے پڑا رہنے دیں۔ دوسرے دن بھورے ایک بجے پھر بھورے ڈالیں اور دوائی والا پانی ڈالیں لیکن یاد رہے اس سے پہلے کوئی بھی پانی کبوتروں کو نہیں پلانا۔

رایزیک(40 م-ج) کا ساشے ایک گلاس پانی میں مکس کریں اور رات کو دس بجے پانچ سی سی یہ پانی ہر کبوتر کو دیں ۔ وہ بیمار ہو یا تندرست سب کو پانچ سی سی دیں۔

پانچ دن تک یہ سب دوائیاں استعمال کروائیں انشاء اللہ رب کریم شفاء عطا کرنے والا ہے۔کبوتروں میں بیماری ختم ہو جاۓ گی۔

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When a bird is suffering from egg binding, it exhibits certain noticeable signs. For instance, an egg-bound hen will typically be found sitting on the nest for extended periods, appearing lethargic and unwell. The area above the vent may become swollen and warm to the touch. When walking around, the bird may seem miserable, with ruffled feathers. Sometimes, egg binding occurs when the egg is abnormally large, making it difficult for the bird to pass.

In the case of pigeons, an egg-bound bird will exhibit similar symptoms. It will isolate itself in a corner, appearing listless and sick. The feathers may be slightly fluffed, giving the bird a rounder appearance than usual. This feather fluffing is a natural behavior exhibited by birds when they feel cold, and the egg-bound pigeon may experience a sensation of extreme coldness. Additionally, the bird will appear droopy, with dull eyes and feathers. It is important to note that an egg-bound pigeon will avoid flying, as the physical strain can exacerbate the condition.

Egg binding is distressing for birds. It requires immediate veterinary care. If you notice signs, seek professional help. This prevents complications and ensures well-being of the bird.

Why Egg Binding Problem in Pigeons ?

Egg Binding usually happens when the hen is too young. The poor hen has just not grown sufficiently to allow the easy passage of the developed egg. Egg binding is an emergency situation. The bird may be given fluids intravenously or subcutaneously as well as antibiotics, steroids and calcium.

Another common theory is that egg binding is the result of lack of calcium in the diet. Most of us offer a variety of calcium sources to our birds (egg shell, cuttlebone, oyster shell) and yet hens still die from egg binding.

I do believe nutrition is at the root of this problem. Most bird breeders are careful to offer a variety of calcium sources. Rather, I believe, the problem is the inability of the bird to metabolize the calcium that is readily available in the diet. The other major cause is poor condition of the mucus membranes in the vent area.

Egg Bound Hen Treatment

When dealing with a bird suffering from egg binding, creating the right environment is crucial for their well-being. One of the primary requirements is a warm and quiet space for the bird, as this allows their energy reserves to be directed towards passing the egg instead of maintaining body warmth. By providing a cozy and calm environment, you’re helping the bird to focus on the necessary task at hand.

In addition to creating the right atmosphere, it is important to address calcium deficiency, as this can significantly contribute to the occurrence of egg binding. Increasing calcium intake can greatly enhance the muscle action required for expelling the egg. One effective calcium supplement is Calcivet by Vetafarm, which not only provides a source of calcium but also contains vitamin D3, which is essential for the absorption of calcium.

Administering the calcium supplement directly into the bird’s crop can be helpful, especially if the bird is not consuming food or water properly. This ensures that the bird receives the necessary nutrients directly and efficiently.

By focusing on these two key aspects – providing a warm and tranquil environment and supplementing with calcium – you can potentially assist the bird in passing the egg and alleviate the distress caused by egg binding. However, it is important to consult a veterinarian for a proper diagnosis and guidance tailored specifically to the bird’s condition.

Caring for Egg-Bound Hen Birds: Steps to Ensure their Recovery

Massaging a small amount of vegetable oil around the vent will help soften the mucus membranes around the vent and help the hen pass the egg.

Administer a dose of castor oil and then anoint well up the vent with hot olive oil, applied by means of a feather, gently pressing the parts to help the pas sage of the egg.

Once the egg has passed, the bird will appear to have made a complete recovery. Pairing the same bird again can result in death, treat your bird first to address natural deficiencies.

Emergency Care for Birds with Worsening Egg Binding

It is important to exercise caution when handling birds experiencing egg binding. Excessive handling can further distress the bird and potentially worsen their condition. Therefore, it is generally not advisable to handle them excessively or without proper knowledge and expertise.

f the aforementioned treatments and interventions fail to resolve the issue, a skilled and experienced professional may need to perform an operation to remove the lodged egg. It is vital to emphasize that only a trained professional should undertake this procedure. Attempting it without proper expertise can have severe consequences and potentially result in the bird’s death.

Therefore, if the condition persists despite initial treatments, we highly recommend promptly seeking professional veterinary assistance. Skilled veterinarians possess the necessary knowledge, skills, and equipment to safely and successfully perform surgical interventions when needed.

Remember, the well-being and survival of the bird should always be the top priority. By allowing trained professionals to handle complex procedures, such as egg removal operations, you can ensure the best possible outcome for the afflicted bird.

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